You say Ceviche, I say Seviche

We had some fantastic shrimp and scallop seviche on New Year's Eve. It was so good that I had to have that taste again. So I decided to try a simple shrimp seviche for a snack one recent evening.

Seviche is a relish made of seafood, often raw, mixed with acidic fresh ingredients. Seviches can be simple or complex, incorporating ingredients like sour oranges or pineapple. Many recipes use raw fish that is "cooked" by marinating in lime juice. Using raw fish makes the dish a little more difficult to make at home because you really need to trust in the freshness of the fish. If you use shrimp, the shrimp are usually first poached in water. That makes everything a little easier.

I used a very basic recipe from Rick Bayless' Mexican Kitchen. It is basically a fresh tomato salsa mixed with gently poached shrimp that has been marinated in lots of lime juice. Really good ripe tomatoes are important for the dish, so pay the premium for the good ones, if you can. For a first try, I was very pleased with my seviche. I will definitely make it again. Mine was served with tortilla chips, but the version we had on New Year's Eve came with saltines. Chips are definitely better.

I have always seen this dish spelled "Ceviche" on menus, but Mr. Bayless spells it Seviche in his book so I am keeping it that way for the recipe.

Shrimp Seviche (Seviche de Camaron) adapted from Mexican Kitchen, Rick Bayless

1 lime halved
1 lb. med-large shrimp, unpeeled
1 small red onion
salt
1/3 c plus 2T fresh lime juice
1 T cider vinegar
1 t. chopped fresh thyme or 1/4 t dried
1/2 t oregano
2-3 fresh serrano chile, finely chopped
2 med-lrg. ripe round tomatoes
3 T. fresh chopped cilantro
1 lrg. avocado, peeled, pitted and diced
lettuce leaves for serving bowl (optional)
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Squeeze the juice from two lime halves in med. size sauce pan, then add the squeezed rinds and 1 quart water. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes.

Poach the shrimp in the lime water, until just done. Spread them on a plate and allow to cool.

Peel the shrimp, then devein, cut the shrimp into 1/4-inch bits.

Mix the shrimp with the onion, lime juice, vinegar, thyme, oregano and chiles in a med. bowl. Cover and let stand at room temp. up to 1 hour. (*I prefer to let it sit in the fridge. I like the seviche with a bit of a chill on it)

Just before serving, stir in tomato, cilantro and avocado, then season with salt, about 1 teaspoon, (if using a full pound of shrimp). Line a decorative bowl with lettuce leaves, give the seviche another toss, then scoop the mixture into the bowl.

Note: This recipe is just a guide. I used only 1/2 lb shrimp and adjusted from there. Really, everything here can be adjusted to taste, just make sure there is enough lime juice to cover the shrimp while it marinates. I left out the oregano and thyme. We didn't miss them.

This and that

We composed a good salad the other day with various leftovers from the fridge: sliced chicken, apple, sliced swiss cheese, celery, red bell pepper.

Kung Pao Halibut

This is a really great way to prepare halibut. The recipe is from the Big Bowl Cookbook by Bruce Cost

Kung Pao Fish, Wok-seared and steamed

2T peanut oil
8oz fish fillet (halibut or other white fleshed fish)
1 T finely julienned bamboo shoots
2T finely julienned ginger
1 T finely julienned fresh red chile pepper
1/3 c water
½ c fresh cilantro
½ t sesame oil


Kung Pao sauce

1 T red wine vinegar
2 t light soy sauce
½ t dark soy sauce
2 t chile paste with garlic
2 t hoisin sauce
1 t sugar
1 T Shaoxing rice wine
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Heat the pan or skillet to nearly smoking and add the oil. When hot, sear the fish, flesh side down. Add the bamboo, ginger and chile and stir briefly. Add the Kung Pao sauce and stir briefly. Turn the fish, add the water and cover.

Steam the fish for a couple of minutes, or until nearly done. Uncover and continue to cook to reduce the sauce (reduce, but it should not be a glaze) Take the pan off the heat. Remove the fish with a slotted spoon. Add the cilantro leaves to the sauce and stir until wilted. Pour over the fish. Sprinkle with sesame oil. Serve with rice and veg.

fond of fond

This magnificent pan, my new All-Clad 10-inch stainless saute pan, produces the best fond. Maybe it is just that you can see it better than on a hard-anodized surface, I don't know. All I know is, does anyone need anything sauteed?

New Year's Day Tacos

Think back to the tacos of your youth: the ground beef in a crispy shell from a box(or maybe you were lucky and got fresh tortillas.), orangy juices dripping from the side. The toppings: iceberg lettuce, tomato, shredded yellow cheddar cheese, salsa from a jar. It was one of my most beloved dinners as a kid.I still like to make a taco dinner once in a while. But I've made a few changes. Instead of the seasoning packet, I use a recipe from an article in Cook's Illustrated that sought to reproduce that taco beef flavor, but with all natural ingredients. The meat tastes just like you would remember of the one from the Lawry's packet, but it is made with onions, garlic, chile powder, cumin, coriander, tomato sauce, cider vinegar...

I make up some tacos and top them with homemade tomatillo salsa, tomatoes, cilantro, and some crumbled fresh mexican cheese. We'll have simmered black beans and rice on the side. On a really special day, I'll fry corn tortillas crisp to make fresh taco shells.